Barbie Doll Crochet Russet Color Dress With White Bocide Only
My favorite hobby is crocheting doll clothes. Using what I've learned from reading existing patterns, I create my own designs for Barbie.
Crochet a Lacy Cocktail Dress for Barbie With a Doily Skirt
I have never liked to crochet doilies because I never know what I would do with them. Having moved to a newer house (different from my childhood home), I don't think heirloom doilies will match well with our modern décor. Plus, doilies take a lot of time to make since attention to detail is necessary in order to ensure that the desired pattern will come out perfectly.
I have been playing with the idea of making a Barbie dress that had a doily-like skirt, but I have never liked the way the doilies drape when the dress is upright. It looks good when the skirt is spread out in a circle, like an actual doily, but my Barbie Model Muse doll cannot sit, so this project has been on the back burner for quite some time.
The Solution Is an Underskirt
It was when I made a Barbie gown from an old publication that I discovered a way to circumvent this problem. Adding an underskirt to the dress actually helps with the draping of the doily, making it look more like an actual gown instead of a dress with a doily skirt.
This is a free crochet pattern for a Barbie doily cocktail dress. It is specifically made for a Barbie Basics doll (or Model Muse body). For more information on the different Barbie body types available on the market, please visit Crochet Clothes for Your Barbie Doll.
Materials
- Size No. 7 Crochet Steel Hook
- Size No. 10 Crochet Cotton Thread in A (Variegated) and B (Solid)
- One Small Snap
- One Hook and Eye
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Needle and Thread
Gauge
10 sc = 1", 10 sc rows = 1"
Abbreviations Used in American Terms
- Ch: * - chain
- St(s): stitch(es)
- Sc: x - single crochet
- Sc2tog: Sc the next 2 sts together
- Inc: 2 sc in the next st
- RS: right side
- BLO: back loops only
- Sk: skip
- Ch-sp(s): chain space(s)
- Dc /, |, \: double crochet
- Dc2tog: dc the next 2 sts together
- Dc3tog: dc the next 3 sts together
- Dc4tog: dc the next 4 sts together
- Dc-cluster (): similar to dc2tog, except you do the stitches in just 1 st instead of 2
Pattern
We'll start by making the top part of the dress, then finish with the doily and underskirt.
Starting From the Waist Up
Row 1: With A, ch 29, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (28)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc until you reach the last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn. (26)
Rows 3 to 6: Repeat Row 2. (18)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. (18)
Rows 8 to 15: Repeat Row 7. (18)
Scroll to Continue
Read More From Feltmagnet
Rows 16 to 22: Repeat Row 2. (4)
Row 23: Repeat Row 7. Fasten off. (4)
Neck Straps
Row 24: Ch 10, attach A with sc in each sc of Row 23, ch 10, turn.
Row 25: Ch 1, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, sc2tog 2 times, sc in each ch across. Fasten off. (22)
Border
Starting from the bottom of the top with RS facing you, with B, attach thread and work an sc around the edge of the bodice going up the neck straps and back down to the opposite side of the bodice. Add 3 sc2tog (1 in the V of the neck strap, two on either side of the bust) to add some shape to the bodice. Fasten off.
Depending on the fit of the bodice, add extra sc rows to the sides only going down to the skirt part to make a neat back.
Overskirt
Row 1: With RS facing, join A with sc on the opposite side of the initial working chain, sc in the next 2 ch, (inc, sc in the next 3 ch) two times, inc, sc in the next 4 ch, (inc, sc in the next 3 ch) three times, turn. (34)
Row 2: Working in BLO, ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2 dc in the same sc, (ch 4, sk the next 2 sc, 3 dc in the next sc) across, turn. (12 \|/'s)
Round 3: Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next dc, dc in the next dc, *ch 5, sk the next ch-4 sp, *dc in the next dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next dc, dc in the next dc*, repeat * across, join with sl st in the first ch of the first ch-5 sp, do not turn. (12 \\*//'s)
Round 4: Ch 6, *sc in the first ch-5 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc, ch 2, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, ch 3*, repeat * around, ending with 1dc in the last dc instead of 2 dc, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. Make sure to work through both thicknesses that were joined in Round 3, for the final pattern repeat to make a tab where the ends meet. (11 \/|**|\/'s)
For more information on this tab, please visit Pullip Backless Sundress.
Round 5: Ch 8, sk the first 2 ch-3 sps, *dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc, ch 3, sk the next ch-2 sp, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc, ch 5, sk the next 2 ch-3 sps*, repeat * around, ending with 2 dc in the 2nd to the last dc, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. (11 \\//***\\//'s)
Round 6: Ch 7, sc in the first ch-5 sp, *ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc, ch 4, sk the next ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next 2 dc, ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp*, repeat * around, ending with 1 dc in the 2nd to the last dc, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. (11 \\\//****\\///'s)
Round 7: Ch 9, sk the first 2 ch-4 sps, *dc in the next 5 dc, ch 3, sc in the next ch-4 sp, ch 3, dc in the next 5 dc, ch 6, sk the next 2 ch-4 sps*, repeat * around, ending with dc in the 2nd to the last dc, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. (11 |||||***x***|||||'s)
Round 8: Ch 7, sc in the first ch-6 sp, *ch 4, dc in each of the next 5 dc, ch 6, sk the next 2 ch-3 sps, dc in each of the next 5 dc, ch 4, sc in the next ch-6 sp*, repeat * around, ending with dc in each of the last 4 dc, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. (11 |||||******|||||'s)
Round 9: Ch 8, sk the first ch-4 sp, *dc in the next sc, ch 5, dc2tog, dc in the next 3 dc, ch 4, sc in the next ch-6 sp, ch 4, dc in the next 3 dc, dc2tog, ch 5, sk the next ch-4 sp*, repeat * around, ending with dc in each of the last 3 dc, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. (11 /\|||****x****|||/\'s)
Round 10: Ch 9, sk the first ch-5 sp, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next dc, ch 6, sk the next ch-5 sp, dc2tog, dc in the next 2 dc, ch 6, sk the next 2 ch-4 sps, dc in the next 2 dc, dc2tog, ch 6, sk the next ch-5 sp*, repeat * around, ending with 3 dc as the final pattern, skipping the last dc, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. (11 /\||******||/\'s)
Round 11: Ch 9, sc in the first ch-6 sp, *ch 6, 2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc, ch 1, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, ch 6, sc in the next ch-6 sp, ch 6, dc3tog, ch 3, sc in the next ch-6 sp, ch 3, dc3tog, ch 6, sc in the next ch-6 sp*, repeat * around, ending with dc2tog instead of dc3tog, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. (11 /|\***x***/|\'s)
Round 12: Ch 9, sc in the first ch-6 sp, *ch 6, sc in the next ch-6 sp, ch 6, dc2tog, dc in the next dc, ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc, dc2tog, (ch 6, sc in the next ch-6 sp) 2 times, ch 6, dc-cluster in the next 2 dc, sk the next 2 ch-3 sps, ch 6, sc in the next ch-6 sp*, repeat * around, ending with 1 dc in the last dc instead of 2 for the final dc-cluster, join with sl st in the 3rd ch. (11 ()()'s)
Round 13: Ch 1, sc in the last dc-cluster from Round 12, ch 6, (sc in the next ch-6 sp, ch 6) 3 times, *dc4tog, ch 6, (sc in the next ch-6 sp, ch 6) 3 times, sc in the next dc, (ch 6, sc in the next ch-6 sp) 3 times, ch 6*, repeat * around, ending with ch 3, dc in the first sc to join.
Round 14: (Ch 6, sc in the next ch-6 sp) around, join with sl st in the first dc.
Round 15: *Ch 2, (sc in the next ch-6 sp, ch 3, sl st in the previous sc to form picots) 2 times, ch 2, sl st in the sc*, repeat * around, forming 2 picots for every ch-6 sp made in Round 14.
Fasten off.
Underskirt
With RS facing, join B to the free BL from Row 1 of Overskirt.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in each sc across, turn. (36)
Round 2: Ch 4, (dc in the next dc, ch 1) across, ending with dc in the last dc, join with sl st to the 2nd dc to form a tab, turn. (36 dc, 35 ch-1 sps)
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in each dc and ch-1 sp around, making sure to work through both thicknesses for the first 3 dc, join with sl st to the 3rd ch, do not turn. (68)
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join with sl st to the 3rd ch. (68)
Round 5: Repeat Round 4. (68)
Round 6: Ch 4, (dc in the next dc, ch 1) around, join with sl st to the 3rd ch. (68 dc, 68 ch-1 sps)
Round 7: Repeat Round 3. (136)
Rounds 8–10: Repeat Round 4. (136)
Round 11: Ch 3, dc in the first 7 dc, *2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next 16 dc*, repeat * around, ending with dc in the last 8 dc, join with sl st to the 3rd ch. (144)
Round 12: Repeat Round 4. (144)
Round 13: Ch 3, dc in the same dc as the turning ch, *dc in the next 17 dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat * around, ending with dc in the last 17 dc, join with sl st to the 3rd ch. (152)
Round 14: Repeat Round 4. (152)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Sew a snap at the end of the neck straps to hold the bodice up. Sew a hook and eye above the overskirt to close the back. Feel free to add more snaps to the overskirt and the underskirt if you want, but I personally feel it is unnecessary since the dress holds up well with just the two notions.
Peggy Costantini on September 05, 2020:
Do I have to become a member to download these patterns?
Shelba on September 01, 2018:
Cute Barbie clothes
dezalyx (author) from Philippines on July 30, 2018:
Hi, Laura.
I have found that the easiest way to convert patterns to fit other body types is to figure out a way to make the bottom part first. Aside from the usual adjustments with the hook or thread sizes, figuring out the right stitch counts for the waist area is the most important part. Because this design has a full skirt, you need not worry about getting exact stitch counts going forward from the waist band. But since this also incorporates a doily pattern, you eventually want to have the right stitch count in order to get the pattern to work.
Once you have finished the bottom, doing a backless top is actually the easiest thing to adapt as the snap closures or ties are just at the neck. Try to use the same pattern when decreasing for the top, keep checking to make sure it covers the important bits on the doll, and you should be able to adapt this to fit EAH/MH dolls.
If you are still having trouble with the top, you can use the top in the EAH pattern, something you know for sure will fit your doll, and just have a slightly different looking dress.
Hope this helps you, Laura.
Laura on July 29, 2018:
This is a gorgeous dress! But I'm curious if there is any way to convert it into something that might fit a Monster High/Ever After High doll? I absolutely adore the Ashlynn Ella cocktail party dress (and have made it or variations of it many times) and I would love to know if there's a way to make this dress for a MH/EAH doll as well :D
Marie on January 02, 2017:
Thks for sharing! I used your pattern to crochet purple & red bikini. It worked really well. I have tried numerous patterns over the internet & most of them give directions that don't even fit barbie dolls, so I have made up my own patterns. Your generosity started me on the way to designing my own.
Jo Cauldrick from Isle of Wight on November 02, 2016:
Thank you so much for posting this. I set up a Pinterst board, just so I could save patterns that would fit my daughters dolls. I'm having a lot of fun making dresses from yarn.
dezalyx (author) from Philippines on January 21, 2015:
Thanks, BlossomSB! I wish I knew how to add one of those charts, though, to help make the instructions clearer.
Bronwen Scott-Branagan from Victoria, Australia on January 21, 2015:
The instructions are clear and the photos are great.
skaggscionarsellar.blogspot.com
Source: https://feltmagnet.com/textiles-sewing/Barbie-Doily-Cocktail-Dress-Free-Crochet-Pattern
0 Response to "Barbie Doll Crochet Russet Color Dress With White Bocide Only"
Post a Comment